The illustrations by me help to understand the basic steps involved in the process of hand-weaving

With  love - Weavers

With  love - Weavers

The yarns are dyed according to the preferred Pantone shade. Later wound into hanks or cones. Different types of yarns are dyed with different combinations and suitable dyes.

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The above illustration shows a weaver winding the dyed yarns onto a bobbin, using a motorised machine. These bobbins are either used for warp or weft. If small quantity of yarns are wound on a bobbin it is used as weft, on the contrary larger quantity for warp

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The weft wound bobbin is fit into a flying shuttle that helps to pass the yarn from one corner of the loom to the other. These yarns forms an interlacement with the warp yarns already set on the loom, thus constructing a fabric.

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Close up of a flying shuttle

Denting and drafting

Once the warp yarns are loaded onto the loom using a beam. Individual yarns are passed into held shafts, the term is known as "drafting". Later the drafted yarns are passed into dents of a reed to form uniform fabric, this is process is termed as "denting". Both drafting and denting are done one thread at a time, it consumes time and patience to complete this process. Even if a single draft or dent is missed it forms a fault on the fabric appearance.

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The above images shows a weaver setting up the PPI(Picks per inch). This system is not carried in every handloom fabric. This process is included to have a constant PPI to have a uniform construction of fabric. Because even the tension caused on the yarns can form irregularities on the fabric constructed.

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Treadles are long wooden pedals joined to the shafts that contains the heald wires through which every yarn was passed during drafting. The treadles are controlled by the weavers legs. The treadles forms the design on the fabric. Every fabric has particular combination of treadles to form that particular design.

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The ropes controlled by the weavers hands control the flying shuttle that passes the weft yarns from one corner to the other. During weaving a weaver uses both his hands and legs to construct a fabric. It is a physically tiring manual labour. Complicated the design more complicated is the weaving.

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